15/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 3ºC

For some reason everyone was up at sparrow’s this morning,… I think the fragrance of breakfast wafting down the stairs helped,.. we are now burning more calories than we are eating and I am looking forward to losing the love handles that have plagued me for the last few years!  This does however mean that meals have become competitive and arriving early is a must if you don’t want to miss out on the tastiest bits!

 

At morning muster this morning we were informed that our morning exercise was going to combine functionality and training; we were to use the windlass to raise the anchor from where it had lain for the last few days while the chain was cleaned and oiled,… my spotless foul weather jacket (now called a “fouly”) is no longer spotless and holy crap was it knackering!  10 people essentially acting out an intense aerobics lesson on an oversized see-saw for 20 mins!

 

The rest of the day was spent cleaning the warehouse, tarring, varnishing and tinting.  If anyone were to open up the roof of the warehouse I am sure we’d look like ants, everyone running around very busy, but with little obvious direction!

 

We have now swapped dove sensitive skin soap and moisturising shower gel for Ajax, and shampoo for Joy dishwashing liquid,…  Our hands are beginning to assume the texture and colour of a artist’s drip sheet and Jackson Pollock would be particularly proud of Fred’s multicoloured hands, although mine aren’t bad either!!  Our fingerprints have probably disappeared thanks to the abrasive cleaners and as for our nails,.. well, we have given up cleaning our nails.

 

The evening was spent with “Fred” (Mike’s new name due to the numerous “Mike’s on board – we have 5!) giving a lanyard workshop (the string that attaches your knife and spike to your rig) and he is now known as Prof. Fred, due to his dexterity with braids and knots,… I left early as the pub, and internet, was beckoning. On my return just after 10pm I found the batcave in darkness and everyone already in their bunks,.. the windlass had obviously done its job and exhausted everyone!

 

Nautical quote of the day:

“there are three ways to do things, the right way, the wrong way, and the ship’s way”

 

The windlass

Fred and Bob at work!

Chibley helping in the lanyard workshop

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14/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 5ºC
I am slowly getting into a routine, things no longer seem out of the ordinary or alien.  We are worked pretty hard, Breakfast is at 07.30, (although I’m normally up by 06.30 – bunkmate’s snoring permitting), muster is at 8, and we are then sent directly to work until 12 when lunch is called (by the very catchy “ringy Ding” shouts which echo through both ships, the shipyard and the warehouse!), muster is then at 12.45 at which time we are sent to work until 4 when training begins,…  this then continues until 5 and dinner is at 6 (again announced by the increasingly irritating “ringy Ding” calls across all ships! Everyone has normally eaten by 6.02 as we are all ravenous, and we then settle into our routine of “lanyard making” followed by IT based tasks such as emailing (pre-connection) and texting, with a brief visit to the “Bankers”, the local pub for a pint before bed at 10 at the very latest!  Most people are so exhausted they barely make it to the lanyard part of the evening!  With the exception of Chibley who comes and goes from Brad and Jo’s bunks at her leisure, everyone is normally out for the count till the next morning!

I am getting used to wearing my “rig” belt which is my ship knife and Marlinspike (a large metal spike that comes in handy for pretty much everything from opening knots to hammering in nails!), both very useful tools on a boat, but they do have the unfortunate side effect of making me feel like I am wearing a holster and as every male knows, a holster is a very difficult fashion accessory to wear without pretending it contains a magnum .45 and the urge to whip out the marlinspike à la Clint Eastwood is very difficult to suppress, I am sure I’ll get used to it though!

My new carharts (worktrousers - thanks to Brad for those!) are no longer looking so pristine.  I have managed to decorate them with red paint, corroseal, tar and various other substances of unknown origins and although not yet as run-in as the professional crew’s they are beginning to obtain a personality all of their own.

Every Wednesday there is a barbecue.. however since it began to rain, the barbecue was held inside “factory Nº. 2” on the other side of the dory shed.  Donald outdid himself again and they even managed to get a cake for Lauren who had her birthday today!

The captain came and presented himself again and explained a little about the state of the Picton Castle and his hopes for the next few weeks.  A very personable guy who knows everything you could possibly care to ask about ships and sailing.
Cherie hard at work

Rust-busting shackles

Fred getting lashed (in the non-english sense of the word!)

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13/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 4ºC

Holy crap I’m knackered, today I have:

1)   Cleaned the head in the warehouse

2)   Scrubbed the anchor chain

3)   Practiced knots

4)   Cleaned the anchor hold

5)   De-rusted, wire-brushed and core-sealed various areas of the boat

6)   Had training on various areas of the Barque

 

All in, a pretty full day; my hands are black, my nails are filthy, various areas of me have been core-sealed and I am ready for a pint!!  And the same again tomorrow…

This is how the sea should be!!

Fred chain scrubbing

Scrubbing the chain locker

"Now this is a Barque"

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12/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 4ºC
20 minutes before going to bed I discovered I was on galley duty, having no idea what this entailed I went to bed having set my alarm for 30 mins before we should get up (6am),.. this however was not required as someone in the room had intelligently pre-empted everyone’s morning procedures and set their alarm for 4am (obviously in error),.. this was then followed by my next door bunkmate who decided that he was getting up at 5am,.. in the end I gave up trying to sleep and went for my second shower of the journey at about 5.30am… 
Galley Duty is interesting while living on separate ships, Cherie and I had no idea what this entailed, however, we made sure we were on time and helping Donald to organise breakfast (bacon, boiled eggs and bagels) on the trainee’s other temporary home, the ship the Cape Chidley moored on an adjacent dock.  Breakfast was a great success, after ensuring there was coffee for everyone and everyone had had coffee, we set about washing up,.. a little more complicated than previously envisioned,.. as it turns out, Zebroid has hot water, but the sinks are blocked; whereas Cape Chidley has working sinks, but no hot water,.. we applied the standard one sink of suds, one of water with a little bleach (to kill bacteria etc) and washed up,.. the dishcloths rapidly became sodden and we realised we were essentially just pushing water around the plates we were attempting to dry,… issue 1; Chidley is freezing, nothing dries there whereas Zebroid is boiling and things can dry there…. Solution, after every meal, all dishcloths are to be transferred to Zebroid where they can dry to be returned to Chidley in time for the next meal’s washing up. 

Everyone was up early to see The Picton Castle moved to dry dock and to be honest, despite the 3 hours preparation and waiting around, it was quite a spectacular sight to see this 285 tonne behemoth slide slowly out of the water, gradually laying bare her underbelly for all to see….  She wasn’t quite as sleek as I expected her to be, from her sleek lines above water I was expecting a tuniform (marine biologists will know what I mean)–like hull,.. but no, I am sure she would be diplomatically described as “curvy” or “voluptuous” if she was human!  The hull is quite stout and I have been reliably informed is exactly how it would have been shaped if she was an original tall ship, no real keel to speak of!
The XXXX was swiftly followed by lunch, which as “Galley Bitches”, meant that myself and Cherie had to organise the food for 60+ people (not the cooking thank god!),.. however, with 5 mins to go, we were informed that everyone was eating on the dock Next to Zebroid. So instead of eating on Chidley as normal we had to orchestrate the transfer of all condiments from Chidley to the quay of Zebroid,… thanks to the enthusiastic recruitment of many of the other trainees we managed to get everything out and ready,.. Donald as always, was way ahead of us and the pasta bake was piping hot and just the right amount,.. again!

Conversation over lunch focussed around The Picton Castle and whether or not she would be ready by the 1st may, despite the clear blue skies and good humour of everyone, the focus is very much on how soon we will be turning south and heading towards the warmer waters.

After lunch the normal confusion ensued over where we were washing up, who was washing up and after another 20-odd journeys between ships, we were informed that we were late for muster and we had to go over the crew handook and practise knots with the Able Seamen!... this turned out to be great fun, and we learnt a lot about the way in which the ship was managed and many doubts were answered, “how often do you shower?” generated an interesting response from Meredith,..”Well,.. that depends, but no more than once every few days!”, for someone like me that normally showered probably twice a day, this was going to be interesting, but I had already got used to the communal living and I’m sure I would be too tired to soon to be worried about smelling a bit ripe! All too fast/Before long, Cherie and I were whisked away from this cornucopia of nautical knowledge to ensure that dinner was prepared for everyone!...By this time we knew where the dry dishcloths were, and, although the fabled “hot” water on Chidley never materialised Cherie was able to recruit a number of “volunteers” to help (she should work for the Navy,.. I’ve never seen so many people recruited so quickly and calmly!) and we were fortunate enough to finish the washing up in time for a quick game of Ultimate Frisbee in the local park before heading to the pub for a nightcap… we have been informed that we are going to be put to work tomorrow,.. in some ways I am looking forward to it, but I would also quite like a lie-in,.. oh, and a bunkmate who snores slightly below the decibel level of a 747!!!
The propellor: know your enemy!!!
Lunch on the dock
Practicing knots in the warehouse
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11/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 4ºC
It has only been a couple of days and I am already falling into a routine (bearing in mind we haven’t even started work yet!).  Nothing seems quite as daunting as it initially did.  I’ve showered once since I left the UK in a cold shower, getting used to wearing the same clothes over and over again, sleeping en masse, with the dulcet snores of my bunkmates to lull me to sleep and the “holding in” of bodily functions till the last minute or trying to go to the loo only on land to conserve water.
Every day more characters arrive and everyone is distinctive in their own special way,.. however, it is clear that some vetting did go on as all the trainees so far are friendly, adventurous and eager to start this voyage of a lifetime!
Last night a local pub had a quiz night and I am proud to say the trainee teams beat the tar out of the local populace and walked away with first, second and third prizes,… it was a good bonding experience and after a few beers everyone opened up and chatted like we were old friends!  A good international mix of people is beginning to form and we had a late arrival last night in the form of another Brit from Bristol,… finally someone with whom I could confound the North Americans with our britishisms, such as “kipping”, being “knackered”, having “a butchers” at something and wearing “trousers”!
Today we awoke to bright blue skies and as it was another free day today, Brad, myself and Joanna decided to make the most of the beautiful (yet chilly) spring weather and went exploring to the east of Lunenberg, not sure what to expect, we certainly didn’t expect to come across deer, the old fish factory and a lighthouse!,.. we spent a couple of hours exploring the area and came away with a heightened appreciation of the deer’s ability to speed through thick forests as we tried to pursue one we saw and ended up with wet feet and sore backs from bending over to avoid prickly branches!
After planning our voyage to Panama from the vantage point of the lighthouse (go that way, then turn right for 1000 miles!), skimming stones for 20 minutes and “spelunking” (throwing large rocks into the water – they make a “speeeluunk” sound!) we returned to find Zebroid at what can only be described as a “jaunty” angle… she had run out of water and been fully refilled.  Since her water tanks are only on one side and she has no other cargo or fuel, she was sitting at about a 35º angle! I feel I am about to fall onto my laptop as I write this!

Tomorrow, muster is at 7am as the Picton is being hauled out of the water and we have to all be there to help… first day of work… I have my work clothes (pristine at the moment) all ready,.. not quite sure what to expect!

Brad & Jo gazing wisfully in the direction of Panama

Lunenberg from the lighthouse
The 3 intrepid explorers
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10/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 6ºC
The first night’s sleep was interrupted to say the best, there were strange noises coming from some of my bunkmates, and the snoring even permeated through the earplugs I had bought,.. but it was warm and comfortable,.. Unfortunately my body clock woke me at 3am and despite my best attempts to fall back to sleep at 6am I admitted defeat and decided to get up,.. a quick cold shower brought me out of my jet-lagged stupor and I decided to have a wander around the port. 
I could see the Picton Castle clearly for the first time without the fog and sleet, and despite the lack of sail and obviously under works, there was a certain regal character that was unmistakeable.  I began to imagine how she would look with her sails set forging her way through a cobalt sea with her wake spreading out behind her. I was brought out of my daydreams by something rubbing my leg,.. Miss Chibley was wet, cold and obviously needing some attention.  I had heard this cat was notorious for having a bit of a temperament, but she was obviously craving some human contact and followed me as I wandered up and down the quay, not wanting to go onto the Picton in case I woke someone up.
Breakfast was fairly simple,.. a non-work day so things were fairly relaxed, chatted with the cook Donald from Granada who didn’t seem phased in the slightest that he was going to be cooking for 60+ people in a galley of 3-4 square metres,.. so far all the meals had been fantastic!
The morning was spent buying yet more nautical bits and pieces, halyards, marlinspikes, ship knives and belts, this was beginning to be quite a costly little exercise!
My first view of The Picton Castle
 
Chibley keeping watch!
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09/04/2010

by Liam Tayler
Average temp. 7ºC
The sunny english paradise was replaced by Nova Scotia at its best,.. never has a country been more aptly named “New Scotland”, as far as I could see Scotland had sent all its worst weather to Canada.. as we came in we were informed by the captain that it was a balmy 4ºC and so foggy I barely knew we were landing until I saw the tarmac a few feet below me. 
In the airport I immediately recognized Lorraine and Brad, the only 2 people in the concourse with as much luggage as me were sat in front of Tim Hortons.  Dan turned up a little later and amazed everyone with his lack of luggage,… he had managed to pack everything into what can only be described as a slightly oversized sleeping bag case, that weighed only slightly more than my hand baggage

Once fed, we duly called Eddie the taxi driver who I have to say is probably the most knowledgeable person about Halifax in Canada and he regaled us with tales of the origin of the Boston Christmas tree, largest explosions in history pre-Hiroshima and every other fact he could think of whilst nonchalantly hitting every other pothole in the road.  At times he was so intent on ensuring his audience was captivated by his fascinating tales by turning round and looking them in the eye that we almost veered off the road a number of times.  After 1hr 40 mins I had run out of interesting noises to make at the end of every statement, so it was a relief that it finally looked like he had run out of steam.  But we couldn’t have wished for a nicer guy and the scenery (that we could see through the fog) was spectacular.  On arriving in Lunenberg we were challenged to find the bay the fog was so thick and as the drizzle became fully fledged sleet, we were informed by Bronwen that the Picton was to be dry docked next week so we were bunked on the Zebroid an old trawler moored a little down the way.  When I saw her my breath was literally taken away!  If “rust” was this season’s black she would have been the coolest ship in the northern hemisphere! And I had honestly seen more seaworthy vessels 30m underwater!

I have to admit that what started as nervousness on seeing Zebroid suddenly became fully fledged panic when I saw our bunk room, 16 of us in a room barely bigger than my lounge, no hot water, no privacy, on a boat that I honestly thought was painted red until I got up close!

I suddenly became the little 8 year old sent away to camp for 2 weeks for the first time again, desperately lonely, unsure of what to expect, in a strange place with strange people and on the cusp of turning round, bursting into tears and running back to mummy.  However, I didn’t at 8, and I sure as hell wasn’t going to at 34, especially after paying a small fortune to do it!  Other people had managed this voyage and enjoyed it,.. I was going to be one of them!
The entry to "Zebroid"
The beautiful Nova Scotia vista
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08/04/2010

by Liam Tayler

It appears the 1st day of spring has finally arrived in the UK and, sod’s law, I spend it on a train,.. The grey skies and perpetual drizzle has been replaced by vistas that are archetypally English, little fluffy clouds float in a powder blue sky, felt-like grass that looks so green it could be in a swiss chocolate ad, rabbits sit contentedly in fields soaking up the sun evoking images of Watership Down,.. No! Scrap that, too depressing, more like Beatrix potter, I almost expect to see a (Jemima Puddleduck) goose waddle by in a little blue coat.  Cricket greens are laid out like giant neatly sewn emerald quilts in front of picturesque village churches, cats lying on car roofs, their bodies yawning as they stretch out to maximise their contact with the sun, I can almost hear them purring as we speed by..

But the countryside flies by too fast as the train rumbles awkwardly forward, jolting me back to reality,.. en route to Victoria station and Lunenberg!

 

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Prologue Pt XII

by Liam Tayler
I can’t believe I leave tomorrow, the last few months have all been leading up to this trip and although I have tried to make sure I have everything ready, I still don’t feel properly prepared, mentally or physically.

Although I have travelled before, I have never had to think, in advance, of everything I might need for an entire year and, now I am slightly more mature, the added complication of potential issues with bank accounts, tax declarations, tenants defaulting, problems with properties and other nondescript potential disasters.  Normally these issues can be overcome easily via the Internet and the odd costly phone call… not this time!

I have tried to anticipate every potential issue; leave enough money in various bank accounts to cover potential shortfalls for mortgage payments, anticipate rises in interest rates, ensure my folks have power of attorney in case of any accident, ensure my will is up to date etc… until I had to put in order every aspect of my life I never realized how complicated it really was!  At least now everything is organized (or so I hope).

I feel I have packed enough equipment to rival Edmund Hilary,.. and even so, it still fits rather neatly into 2 medium sized bags!... my life for the next 14 months fits into 2 medium sized bags (and there’s even space left over!)… that’s an interesting concept!

I have already liaised with 4 other crew members en route to The Picton Castle; we are all meeting in Halifax tomorrow and sharing a taxi to Lunenberg.  It is going to be interesting meeting all these new faces from different areas in the world. Through my travels in Spain, Ghana and South Africa, I have made friends from all over the world, however what I am a little concerned about is the fact that I am going to be forced to share a 55 x 6m boat with them, my only means of escape.. an active imagination, my ipod and when I’m asleep!

So now the trip really begins,… for those of you bored by the constant talk of preparations, we now have 3 weeks in Lunenberg and will be setting sail for Panama on the 1st May!
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Prologue Pt XI

by Liam Tayler
10 days of catching up with friends is really taking its toll,.. I am exhausted after 4 consecutive nights out (and I am expected to go out again tonight too!).  I thought the leaving parties in Ghana were heavy, but back in blighty I have had my benchmarks reset.  My liver feels like it is about to pack up, my energy levels have dropped through the floor, my vision is blurry, it hurts when I think (more so than normal!), and the kilos I lost before leaving Ghana are back with reinforcements thanks to a diet that has reads like a who’s who of fast food magnates and probably contains more chemicals than the average household bleach!

Really looking forward to life on board.. I can’t handle this anymore!!

I have however managed to see almost all the friends I wanted to (even if only for 15 minutes in one case!) and can now leave happy in the knowledge that I have completed my social obligations for the next 14 months!

I think I have got pretty much everything I need for the trip now, I spent a small fortune on a fantastic offshore foul weather jacket (which I justified by saving money on some 2nd hand offshore trousers), I got a backup head torch, I have completed my tax return (which oscillates between 90 quid and 2 and a half thousand depending on how flexible I am with my residency status!), my “waterproof” camera is en route back from Olympus where it had to be sent when it turned out it wasn’t quite as waterproof as advertised (I’ll be taking a backup camera on the trip!) all that is left now is to pick up a wide array of Ziploc bags and I’m good to go.  Can’t believe there is less than a week to go.
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Prologue Pt X

by Liam Tayler
The pound (or the “lemming currency” as I now like to call it) appears to be intent on committing pecuniary suicide, and is rapidly disappearing from sight into the murky waters of insolvency.  Sod’s law... just as I raise enough money to pay my trip fee the value of the pound to the dollar hits a new low of 1.48,.. bloody typical!!

But I have taken the hit and today ordered my transfer, so that’s it,.. I’m off to sail around the world for a year.

The final preparations for the trip are almost complete; yesterday I pretty much went a bought out a chemist.  Going on recommendations from Maggie and previous World Voyage trainees I went and bought 14 months worth of seasickness tablets, diarrhoea tablets, rehydration powder, bandages, plasters etc as well as one of those mini first aid kits that every traveller “should” have (my first one!)… so on top of all my other Ghanaian “prescription” stuff I have, I think I am covered for pretty much every potential illness and accident barring decapitation and/or organ/appendage loss.

Other recommended items I have recently acquired include a head torch (apparently handy for going to the loo in the middle of the night - or in the middle of a storm), lightweight travel towel, a couple of rash vests (better than sunscreen for a typical pasty limey like me!) and the obligatory sun screen.

Everyone I speak to tells me how exciting it is going to be and what an experience I am going to have, and it is true I am very excited about the voyage, although as the 9th of April draws closer the excitement has begun to transform into trepidation. The realism that I am about to move into a very confined space with 40 other strangers for 14 months in an environment that is completely foreign to me with military procedures, a boss and completely disconnected from the outside world is beginning to dawn on me.  No Internet? No phone? I am the first to admit that I need to disconnect, but having worked in the IT industry on and off for the last 12 years, losing the internet is going to be tantamount to a seasoned heroin addict giving up overnight… it is not going to be a pretty sight! 
So I’m going cold turkey, what am I going to experience? Vomiting? Nausea? The Shakes? (On second thoughts, I’m on a boat, so chances are I’m going to experience those symptoms anyway!).  Forcing myself into this environment is going to test all of my "qualities", I wonder how I am going to react.... As I have mentioned before, this trip isn’t just a voyage around the world, it is a voyage of self discovery and I am intrigued to know what it is I am going to discover.
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Prologue Pt IX

by Liam Tayler
20/03/2010
After 2 weeks of “leaving dos”, final goodbyes and dinners out I have said goodbye to Ghana.

Before I left, I was asked by a friend to list why I like Ghana so much,… through my answers (which provoked a fair bit of debate) it became obvious that although Ghana was the location, the majority of the reasons why I have enjoyed my time there are more transient,  some linked to the “ex-patty” lifestyle, some to the opportunities there, but through a bit of soul searching (and more than a few drinks) I discovered that it basically boils down to; the friends I have made, the places I have visited and the personal experiences I have had (some good, some not so).  Essentially though, it is the people that make the place and I have been very lucky in the people I have met!!

Overall, I loved my time in Ghana, I am going to miss my friends, the weather (at least in the first few wintery months of the voyage) and am going to be very interested to see how it will have evolved over the next 16 months when I come back to visit in 2011.  I hope that at least some of my friends will still be there! 

Although keeping in contact is going to be difficult, the world is no longer as large as it used to be, Facebook, email and cheap flights mean it is much easier to keep in touch than even a few years ago… I hope we all do!

I don’t like goodbyes, I generally prefer to just disappear otherwise I get a bit emotional (sniff!) but I think I did very well, especially as a group of my closest friends came to see me off at a final drink at Obama’s favourite Ghanaian hotel at the airport. 

Spain
On flying into Spain I was incredulous to see Cataluña covered in a blanket of snow. In almost 10 years there, I had never seen anything like it and was reliably informed that snow hadn’t settled in Barcelona for at least 40 years,.. quite a contrast, from 38º and 90% humidity to 3º and blizzard conditions in under 9 hours! - Holy crap was I cold!

Back in Spain the culture shock was pretty sharp, apart from the obvious weather issues, the temptation to “tsssss” waiters to get their attention (which would have inevitably resulted in my food having more than a sprinkling of bodily fluids) and the need to suppress my negotiation skills when talking to taxi drivers were the least of the cultural issues I had to work around. 
My Spanish had obviously suffered after speaking a mixture of Ghanaian pidgin English (including phrases such as “small small”, the acknowledgement grunt “Eh,.. heeeggghh”, injecting “my friend” into every sentence and beginning every conversation with “how are you, I am fine; How are you, I am fine”) and basic French for the last 16 months and was often laughed at as I made basic gender errors and spoke (as I was told condescendingly by a friend) as if I was just learning Spanish again.  Strangely enough, my Catalan hadn’t suffered as badly as it was pretty pathetic to start with, and the French appeared to have actually helped!

In social environments my female Spanish friends were confused by my addition of an extra kiss to the traditional 2 cheek kisses, and my male friends were particularly perplexed by my replacement of the traditional handshake and “man-hug” by the Ghanaian handshake that includes at least 2 different types of clasp and a finger click on separation!

After a couple of days, a few drinks and a traditional “Calçotada” with friends, I began to fall back into my European ways and despite little things surprising me from time to time (such as the recognition that there was decent public transport, water and electricity were the norm etc.), the transition back into first world living was pretty uneventful, I even decided to banish my internal Ghanaian hitchhikers with a pretty heavy dose of Giardia and Bilharzia-killing antibiotics and soon everything was back to normal (bowel movements included!).

It was a busy 10 days, finally shut down my business, sold my car, fixed a few bits and pieces in the flat, saw friends, met new additions to the world (is it my imagination or is everybody in Europe pregnant at the moment?), popped over to Lisbon to see Deb and P and basically put my Spanish life on hold for 16 months.. I hope it’s still there when I get back!

UK
Flying into the UK was pretty uneventful, on arriving I noticed everyone was up in arms about the BA strike and worrying about the Rail strike over Easter.  The train turned up late, the notice board showed the wrong train, the circle and Victoria underground lines were both closed and it was cold and drizzling,.. some things never change!!!
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Prologue Pt VIII

by Liam Tayler
Finally received notification from Lloyds yesterday that my remortgage application had been pre-approved, but that they would need bank statements, payslips and a myriad of other documentation, and that only then would they officially approve it, which would take at least another month!!  Bastards!!  Was I naïve in thinking that a remortgage would take under 6 months?
Not content with ripping us off with scandalous bank charges and outrageous interest rates they have the nerve to lose paperwork, make unreasonable demands and basically mess us, the clients, around, I have lost thousands on the value of the pound alone!! Anyway, I digress, apologies for the rant, but it had to be said, now back to more nautical topics.

So I have had to find other financing means,.. but at least I know now where I stand and my preparations for the world voyage are in full swing.  On the recommendations of a doctor friend out here I went and spent a small fortune on various (normally prescription) drugs to ensure that any (and every) bug I could have picked up in Ghana can be well and truly dealt with in as short a time as possible… it would be sod’s law to suddenly come down with malaria or bilharzia as soon as I return to the northern hemisphere.

Both arms are presently dangling lazily at my sides thanks to multiple vaccinations,… when I was a kid I had a tetanus shot at least once every couple of months with my tendency to cut myself open at any opportunity (counted them: over 105 stitches and staples!!) , but since I matured (apparently that’s what’s happened to me) I find myself less and less likely to end up in casualty, and needed a booster.. Personally I think that just shows I’ve become a little less adventurous, sad really!

So my last 4 days in Ghana, passport: check, up to date exit visa: check, presents for people: check.. the countdown has really begun, and just as everything was coming together.  Excited about the next stage in a life that could only be described as random, should be fun!
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The Concordia

by Liam Tayler
I have just this minute heard about the Concordia, a tall ship out of Lunenberg that sank off the coast of Brazil this morning due to high winds and rough seas (http://montreal.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20100219/brazil_ship_100219/20100219/?hub=MontrealHome).   

All 64 crew were rescued, but it puts into perspective exactly what we are going to be putting ourselves through during the trip.  There are going to be some fantastic times, but it is clear that it is no walk in the park, the Concordia is a very similar boat to the Picton Castle, a slightly larger “Barquentine” at 57,5m long compared to the Picton’s 54,5m, if she can capsize, then so can we!

Glad to hear everyone was rescued safely.
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Prologue Pt VII

by Liam Tayler
Although it appears as though nothing is happening, preparation for the trip has begun in earnest.  I have already procured a pair of second hand heavy duty waterproof trousers to be picked up in the UK, and on looking through my clothes here have decided that I will probably just take everything I have (for those of you who know me, you know I don’t exactly spend a lot of time or money on clothes, so pretty much everything I own fits into 2 rather small bags!).

Despite the remortgage not having come through yet, (thanks Royal Mail for losing the first set of documents) going on the voyage is not in question. If need be I will beg, borrow and steal to get on the boat!
Obviously I hope it won’t come to that, and apparently my mortgage has been “pre-approved” so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it all happens before the pound crashes even further into the abyss.  (In apparent freefall thanks to the f*ckwits presently running the country).

My flight to Spain leaves on the 8th March, barely 2 weeks away, and although I am in denial about leaving Africa and trying not to think too much about it, (I haven’t yet bought all the gifts I had intended to, visited some of the places I wanted to, and completed some of the tasks I set myself) everyone keeps mentioning my departure to me, and I am beginning to realize that before long I will have to leave my friends and adoptive country (yes, I applied for my Ghanaian identity card!) behind me and set out on a new stage of my life.

I received an update from Maggie yesterday regarding the Picton Castle and it looks like she will be fully overhauled before we get there in April, ready for the month of training before we set sail.  I’m looking forward to getting on board and meeting the other crewmembers, but I have to admit that I am not looking forward to the cold… I fear I have got too used to the 35 degree heat and sweltering humidity here in Africa. At least I have 2 weeks in Spain, and then the UK to acclimatize myself before encountering the freezing cold temperatures in Northern Canada (presently 1°C compared to 34°C here!),… roll on the southern hemisphere and warmth!!
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Prologue Pt VI

by Liam Tayler
02/12/2009
A large package arrived in the post today looking more like a patchwork quilt than an envelope thanks to the myriad of Canadian stamps on it!  My pack contained a medical information form, sail trainee declaration, invoice, Articles of engagement and the Handbook for crew… 

The trip seems very real now and just around the corner, I’m getting a little concerned that the deadline for payment is just a few weeks away and my re-mortgage is no nearer completion.

The Handbook really brings the message home that the trip is imminent, and contains a lot of interesting information: the man overboard drill (especially important given the accident in 2006! http://www.cbc.ca/fifth/overboard/), Fire alert, abandon ship procedure, heavy weather recommendations, watch procedures etc..

The section on orders and rules is quite comprehensive and there will definitely be a “military” feel to the voyage, not just in the shift structure, but the “order of command” and the policies on booze (“a privilege, not a right”!) are going to take some getting used to!  There are also some interesting general rules, such as: “Do not do jumping jacks over someone else’s bunk, especially at night”! I mean, is it normal to be doing “jumping Jacks” at night above someone else’s bunk?? Is this a normal occurrence at sea???  Do I have to watch out for “half-way-up–the-mast” yoga sessions at 3 in the morning? Or people practising the increasingly popular “seafaring circuit training” (including bow sprints and stern squats!) in the middle of the night?

The seafaring language is also going to take some getting used to, phrases such as “avast”, “Belay the…”, “that’s well”, “Square the yards”, “Clew down”, “Wung out” etc. don’t seem to make a great deal of sense,.. maybe I should watch the “Pirates of the Caribbean” and “Master and Commander” a few times to get into the swing of things!

To be honest, the Handbook is a little intimidating. In 2000 I thought that my move to Spain was going to be demanding; moving well out of my comfort zone to a completely new environment with the challenges of a new language, a new country and new friends; and it was! But after almost 10 years it just seemed like home!

I then expected my move to Ghana to provide me with similar challenges, (albeit in a completely different and unique environment) and it has done, both culturally and personally, fascinating and enriching.  My experiences in trying to find work, understanding local culture and language and getting used to the lack of electricity and water, all redefined my concept of “challenging”.  Yet, once again after only a year here I feel comfortable and settled.

However, I foresee that this trip is really going to force me to re-evaluate my definition of demanding.

The voyage will not be dissimilar to moving to another country; there’s a new language:

“The mariners are a pleasant people, but little like those in the towns, and they can speak no other language than that used in ships” The Licenciate Vidriera

There’s a new (seafaring) culture (with the added complication of the diverse cultures of the other members of the crew), there’s the regimented structure of life on board, and the very real dangers and challenges of life at sea:

"No man will go to sea who can contrive himself put in jail, for going to sea is being in jail with the added chance of being drowned. In jail both the food and the company are likely to be better. A man who would go to sea by choice would likely go to hell for recreation" - Samuel Johnson.

These elements combined with the additional challenges of the lack of communication with the outside world, claustrophobia (or cabin fever) due to limited personal space and extended periods of isolation (both mental and physical) will create a hostile and unforgiving environment for those not completely dedicated to the experience. 

I have a feeling I am going to come out of this trip a very different person from the one who embarks in 3 months time.

Regardless, it continues to impress me how easy people find it to adapt to different environments, as long as I am open and accepting of other cultures and manage my expectations, there is really no reason why this voyage should be any more difficult than the others I have been on!

Once again, despite the challenges that this voyage will throw at me, there is another quote which neatly summarizes one of the key reasons I am doing this:

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”- Mark Twain.

With this in mind the trip doesn’t seem quite so daunting. I wonder, in 20 years time, what I will say when I look back?
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Prologue Pt V

by Liam Tayler

13/11/2009

I received an email from Maggie requesting another phone call last night, I really wasn’t sure what to make of it,.. were they really that unsure of me? Did I say something in the conversation with Captain Moreland that contradicted my first phone interview? Had calling Captain Moreland “Dan” when I said goodbye sealed my fate and I was forever cursed to a landlubberly life? I didn’t know what to think….

However, when Maggie called she seemed quite upbeat and although the delay on the line was incredibly bad, I think she said that I had been accepted!!!  Woohooo!!!  Now all I have to do is find 25k!

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Prologue Pt IV

by Liam Tayler

10/11/2009

It is moments after speaking to Captain Dan Moreland, and I am reflecting on the conversation we just had,.. no malaria this time thank god (although we haven’t had water for a few days!), so I think I was a little more coherent than before.  Surprisingly, the conversation I had prepared for (questions requesting details of situations where I had used teamwork, shown resourcefulness etc.) never surfaced. It turned out to be a chat where I actually did most of the talking.  Captain Moreland (who I accidentally called Dan when we were saying goodbye,.. oops) seemed a very experienced and knowledgeable individual who put to rest any qualms and worries I had about the trip; the long periods without landfall, the age differences between the crew, the people jumping ship (in port, not mid-ocean – in case you were wondering).  I was particularly pleased when he said that dinghy sailing experience was a positive element, but that yachties tended to create problems as they think they know it all, and sailing in a barque is a very, very different environment to sailing in a typical yacht.

 

However, he did bring up a key point; when asked if he knew if anyone else was planning on writing a blog or book on their experiences he pointed out that the only other person to do this (Rigel Crocket – “Fair Wind and Plenty of it”) had lost any friends he had made on the voyage through the book.  It suddenly dawned on me that he had a point; we were going to be living in each others pockets, experiencing events and emotions in an environment where nothing could be hidden from the other members of the crew.  His unsaid recommendation was obvious, if you want to do this, you risk losing any friends you make on the voyage.  It was up to me to decide how to manage this... do I continue? Do I give everyone a say in the editing? Do I use pseudonyms? Or do I bin the idea and concentrate on enjoying the trip and getting as much out of it as I can. 

 

It may however be a moot point, they haven’t accepted me yet!!  I’ll worry about that when I get the confirmation!

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Prologue Pt III

by Liam Tayler

29/10/2009

I have just received notice from two of the referees that I included on my application that they have spoken to Maggie,..  I decided to include David, a friend from my MBA in Spain and a subsequent employer in a school where I gave business development and public speaking classes, Steve, the amicable tenant in my flat in London, and Andy, probably one of my oldest friends and although a pain in the arse from time to time, probably one of the people who know me best!  Not sure what they’ll be looking for exactly, but I assume they asked about my ability to get on with people, if I’m resourceful and whether or not I will survive a year on a boat… David informed me he described me as an “alma mater” (which I had to look up!) meaning “Nourishing mother”… I think it was meant as a compliment since I organized a lot of parties and was famed for my barbecues in Barcelona, but since he’s given up drink for the last 3 weeks, he may just be being spiteful!  Fingers crossed.

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Prologue pt II

by Liam Tayler

15/10/2009

The 1st interview with Maggie from the Picton Castle was an interesting experience; the electricity had been off for 2 days which meant that I had no water (electric water pump!) and that I was hot, sticky and inevitably bothered. This, combined with a bout of malaria and its associated lack of sleep (and bodily fluids), had rendered me brain-dead and about as focused as Keith Richards after a night out (with Oliver Reed).  The interview began fairly uneventfully, but the fact that the phone kept cutting out every few minutes didn’t help and although my attempts to be chatty and interesting seemed perfectly fine and charming to me, I felt the pauses in conversation weren’t so much due to the delay on the line as to Maggie’s confusion as to what the hell I was going on about!  Despite my obvious lack of mental cohesion the interview ended on a positive note as Maggie stated that she would be contacting my referees and would then be in touch for a follow-up interview.  My heart, my mind (and unfortunately that day, my bowels) were racing with the next important question… If I get accepted, how the hell am I going to raise the $46k needed for this trip of a lifetime?

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